While numbers were small last year, those of us who hit the trails had a fabulous time.   Kati and I did Muktinath in February. Snow was beautiful up the top, Spring was wonderful to walk back down into after the heights.   Hardly anyoneone else was up there besides the locals.

The Codlin family, Col, Lyndall, Keisha and Billy, trekked with me once more to Muktinath.  We almost got rained out in the beginning (we started the season a bit early)  but a short delay in a nice lodge (Eagle Nest, Ghasa) and the rest was great, though not without incident.   

Sharon, out of Canada, was the only customer for Everest.  My partner Ekki was unwell and another couple of trekkers just ‘couldn’t make it’.  Undeterred, Sharon and I, with Lahar and Bir, had a fantastic time pioneering this new approach, jeeping in halfway to Lukla. Not EBC!

Plans for 2023.

Since our trek to Thamo and Thame, above Namche Bazzaar in the Everest region last season was so good, I thought we could do it all again.   The Everest region is really impressive but it is not necessary to trek all the way up to the Everest Base Camp with most of the other trekkers, to see the Himalayas at their best.  Under Last Trek Reports you can read all about our trial trek, using jeeps for the first couple of days – mainly to save our legs for later.

It takes a full day to jeep up to Phaphlu at around 2800 metres and we will overnight there in a traditional trekking lodge – though it is directly opposite the local airstrip which can be interesting. The following day we will take our own dedicated jeeps to Kharikhola.  A different route to last season but I think it sounds way better. On day three we can jeep up for just an hour to avoid a brutal climb and then the trekking starts in earnest.  It is not easy at first, but we will go slowly, really slowly.  This region is all steep hills, here and there it is terraced into fields for cropping but in other areas it is very steep indeed and covered in dense forest. The trail is very rocky and, in the deep shade of the forest, sometimes muddy – though we would normally have very little rain in this season.  There are donkey and yak trains on the route. 

After a few days we will join the main EBC trail, just north of Lukla, into which most trekkers will have flown.  They smell of shampoo! We will still take three days to get to Namche, I find this is great for acclimatisation and we rarely feel any altitude problems up there.

After a night in this big, iconic, busy village we will take the easy trail to Thamo, a lunch stop for most trekkers doing a day-trek to acclimatise.   Gorgeous little village of traditional houses, a nunnery, Buddhist stupa and friendly, cosy lodge.  Next day is again easy but at 3800 metres it feels like heavy going sometimes.  Thame has stupendous views and the lodge is very comfortable with individual cabins with attached bathrooms.  We can stroll about in the afternoon, acclimatising all the while.  I hope to stay here two nights and explore the area a bit more on day 2.  However, we need to be sure everyone feels great up here.  If not, we will descend a little. The last really impressive day is from Thame to Kumjung – over the ridge or around the longer, slightly easier way?  To be decided. After a night in Kumjung, one of the most traditional Sherpa villages and home of the first Ed Hilary school, we can climb the steep track back over the ridge to Namche, or take the easier trail.  Both very scenic.

After Namche the trek retraces our earlier path, including jeeping out of Phaphlu at the end.  The Trek Report covers all this in more detail.

Cost for this one will be $4000 AUD.   If you are comparing prices for a three week trek do keep in mind that we cover ALL your expenses. Every meal, lift, entrance fee, trekking permit, transfers and hotels. You will also have your own personal porter, which is not usual with other companies.  This guy will carry your main rucksack and walk near you each day in case you want something like a warmer jacket. He will be there with a guiding hand when the going gets a bit tricky. If you are a bit slower or faster than the others in the group, I will know you are in safe hands and not trekking alone. 

STOP PRESS!!!!

We are now offering an extension to the Everest Trek to go to the iconic Everest Base Camp. You would leave the main group at Namche Bazzaar and, after the Base Camp, fly back to Kathmandu, arriving on the same day as the main group, who trekked out. The cost is a little more but includes a flight out at the end, for you and your porter. Two women signed up for this so far.

The Cultural Safari is back on this year. There are 6 of us confirmed so far and a couple more 'maybes' so do get your skates on if you fancy this trip. Any normally healthy person can do this. Maybe read some of the previous Trek Reports of Cultural Safaris to get the idea.   The dates are November 10 to 20, but if you are not ‘staying on’ from the trek you need to come into Kathmandu on 8 November to join the folks already there.  This is NOT a trek.   We take our own vehicle and do an amazing loop around central Nepal.  Starting in Kathmandu we head south to Chitwan National Park, staying in a luxury resort.  On the back of elephants (well-loved, well-cared for) we will go out in the jungle looking for rhino, tiger, deer, sloth bear, wild boar, peacocks, etc. We will ride the Rapti River which is shallow and slow moving, in traditional canoes.  After Chitwan we head across the Terai to Lumbini, the birthplace of the Buddha.  Temples and tranquility.

Next stop is Thansen Palpa.  A bit off the beaten track for most tourists.  A pleasant little town with stunning views, if clear.  Next day we drive to Pokhara.  It is so nice here we will stay two nights. The lake, the sunrise views, the eating, the shopping…

After two nights we will drive to Bandipur.  Another charming little town just 9km off the main road between Pokhara and Kathmandu.  Next day is a longer drive, though the scenery is spectacular, to the Kathmandu Valley.  I hope to get us lodgings at Benchen Monastery for one night.  A work in progress.  Something nice anyway.

Bhaktapur is next, at the Eastern end of the Kathmandu Valley.  We will stay in the funky Planet Bhaktapur Hotel and walk into the old city in the afternoon.  World Heritage Listed.  The biggest pagoda will take your breath away.  After an overnight we can commute quite easily back to Kathmandu next morning for a free day.  Shopping? I can certainly guide you around to my favourites, or arrange something a bit more cultural – Patan Durbar Square and Museum?

This trip is only 10 days.  The cost is $1850, plus $100 extra if you want to join us on 8 November.   No extra charge for those staying on.     We will stay in nice places and travel in quality vehicles.   While there are quite a few opportunities to trek for an hour or so here and there, this is not a trekking holiday.  Plenty of walking around, but boots and stocks not required. 

All itineraries are now confirmed so scroll on down for all the details… 

While airfares are a bit more expensive, restrictions on vaccinations and PCR tests are over. Still need to wear a mask in the plane - and why would you not? Also, be sure and check the requirements of your own airline and that of your government for your RETURN HOME!

The region we propose to visit are gorgeous.  The area below Lukla on the traditional Jiri to Everest trail are dotted with farms and villages and not just long stretches of rocky wasteland with a cluster of lodges at the end.    The section up to Namche is often busy but of course these days, with tourist numbers so low, I do not think this will be a problem.  The Thamo and Thame Valley is a beautiful area with huge snowy peaks and old stone villages and monasteries clinging to the steep hillsides.  I do not know why it is not more popular but almost everyone goes up the main valley to the Everest Base Camp.   It is amazing up there too but pretty bleak and rather extreme altitudes.   Thame is at 3800 metres and that is the highest we would sleep.  Namche is only 3400 with very comfortable lodges and facilities so if anyone’s body is not responding well to the altitude (unlikely at our slow ascent rate) we are just a day’s easy downhill trek to a more comfortable place. 

I know that jeeping in is NOT the traditional, hard-core way to go.  But I would like to encourage people with more ordinary levels of fitness to join this trek.   I am 68, a bit on the heavy side and I like a drink.  And I plan to walk every step with you. My partner Ekki is keen to do the same.

You can get in touch at teresadb@hotmail.com or vonschwichtenberg@gmail.com.

Love to hear from you.
Cheers, Teresa didi